米蘭 A—Z 城市指南

在Salone del Mobile期間,這座城市慷慨給予,往往更是毫無保留。展覽展品、觀點意見和晚餐邀請如潮水般湧來並累積。白晝變長,夜晚增加。原本只想找幾張椅子,最後發現有三百張椅子,卻還是找不到一個落腳之處。在這裡,尋求平靜並非意味著毫無刺激,而是要精心挑選。勞累之後,我們的感官失去敏銳度,難以捕捉「它」——成千上萬的攤位、熙熙攘攘的人群、舒適的沙發、豐盛的午餐以及各種令人目不暇給的體驗。然而,儘管每年都像一盤米蘭傳統燉飯一樣,肩負著如此巨大的壓力,米蘭依然能夠保持平靜,繼續前進。接下來,我們將體驗一些更靜謐的樂趣,以重新調整我們的感官。

A—Z 不私藏地圖

A

Aperitivo

Meaning ‘to open’, and one of the most enjoyable cultural rituals the country has to offer. Take yours at Eterno.

eternomilano.com
B

Barbieria Colla

The secret behind the sharp looks of many a Duomo sapiens (a Milanese man of a certain age and impeccable style) may be found in a centuries-old barber: Antica Barbieria Colla.
Via Gerolamo Morone, 3

anticabarbieriacolla.com
C

Castiglioni

What with our penchant for celebrating the unsung and the little-known, we don't really go for 'halls of fame’. That said, in any fictitious Design Hall of Fame by Aesop, Achille Castiglioni Foundation would certainly feature. Until then, we are content to make a yearly pilgrimage to his foundation.
Via Gerolamo Morone, 3

fondazioneachillecastiglioni.it
D

Dimore Studio

Emiliano Salci and Britt Moran would have made fine film directors, possibly even better actors. Luckily for the world of interiors and furniture, they chose different occupations, and luckily for us, they applied their superb taste and playfulness to Aesop Corso Magenta. Be sure never to skimp on a little detour to sample their work throughout the city.
Via Solferino, 11

dimorestudio.eu
E

Epoch

Ditta Guenzati has been revered for its high quality fabrics, clothing and accessories for two centuries. A destination for historians and lovers of British style.

dittaguenzati.com
F

Funclab Records

You don't know you need an audio-visual creative collective until it's too late. Funclab is a humble fraternity that has transformed vibration into vocation. Follow their record label for new Italian talent.

funclabcollective.com
G

Groundkeeper Studios

A sleek production team for installations, events and functions that request Funktion-One speakers.

groundkeeperstudios.com
H

Hearing

The Casa Sola-Busca, or as it is nicknamed, the 'Ca de l'Oreggia’ or 'House of the Ear', features an antique intercom in the form of an ear-shaped arrival horn. Historically visitors would announce themselves by yelling directly into the building’s lobe. We have never heard of such a thing.

snappingtheglobe.com
I

Independent Cinema

Cinema Beltrade is a compact cocoon for cinephiles, with superb taste in programming. A good bet if you are more into auteurs than blockbusteurs.
Via Solferino, 11

bandhi.it
J

Jazz

Behind an unassuming façade sits Blue Note Milano, sister of the historic Jazz Club in Greenwich Village, New York.

bluenotemilano.com
K

Kartell

The Componibili has slept beside beds since Anna Castelli Ferrieri designed it in 1969. A stackable tube of democracy and glossiness that has stood the test of time.

kartell.com
L

La Scala

Birthplace of Bellini's Norma and the first performance of Puccini's Madame Butterfly: originally booed, laughed at and heckled. It is rumoured that the support of rival composers was organised in advance to sabotage.

teatroallascala.org
M

Marchesi 1824

Had Marchesi 1824 not existed, would we ever have known the nostalgic pleasures of Mendl’s—the bakery from The Grand Budapest Hotel? Probably not. The perfect place for espresso, pastries and people watching. Do not leave without a box of silver almonds. (Corso Magenta location, naturally.)
Via Santa Maria alla Porta, 11/a

marchesi1824.com
N

Nilufar

Founded in 1979 by gallerist Nina Yashar, the gallery is renowned for its selection of vintage design masterpieces.

nilufar.com
O

Onest

Coffee fuels Italy, in Milan it is Onest coffee store or nothing. It champions small-scale producers and modesty in a city that is often considered excessive.

P

Pasticceria Sissi

Features a lovely outdoor space, just beyond the crowd and cacophony. Best visited at dawn: the coffee before the chaos.
Piazza Risorgimento, 6

instagram.com/pasticceriasissi
Q

Quadronno

Best spot in Milano for a crisp panini and a dry martini—never the other way around—or just to cosplay as a mountaineering enthusiast.
Via Quadronno, 34

barquadronno.it
R

Rotonda della Besana

Respite, hidden in plain sight. Within this former cemetery, arcades form a quiet ring around a preened patch of grass.

residencedesenzano.it
S

Specialist

Do one thing and do it well. We do formulations—Grissinificio Edelweiss does Grissini.

facebook.com
T

Trattoria Torre di Pisa

The cuisine is Tuscan, the space exquisitely decorated. Regardless of what you eat, finish with vodka sorbet. Follow with a refreshing visit to nearby Aesop Brera.
Via Fiori Chiari, 21

trattoriatorredipisa.it
U

Università Bocconi

A magical subterranean realm, and training ground for future economists.

unibocconi.it
V

Villa Necchi

Revisiting lo Sono L'amore once a year may incite a few yearnings, like a compulsion to dress in Raf-Simons-era Jil Sander, or an appetite for outdoor dining. If this first instalment of Guadagnino's 'desire trilogy' forever rolls around your mind like a Milanese tram-cart, then rambling through the rooms where it was shot is an opportunity not to be missed.
Via Mozart, 14

casemuseo.it
W

Words

Verso was conceived as a libratory (not a misspelling) where literature is an experiment. There is a bar and room dedicated to children's books so everyone should find a reason to visit.

instagram.com/versolibri
X

(e)xcavation

Vincenzo di Cotis exhumes life from the past, and reveals the spirit of building materials. A Da Vinci of his time and our architectural collaborator on the Aesop Brera store.

decotiis.it
Y

Yoke

As in cut, not egg. Much of what we know as fashion today was stitched together in Milano. When we are in town, it's Martin Luciano for workwear, Vintage Delirium for secondhand and Veneta Ottica for spectacles.

Z

Zibaldone

Italian for ‘heap of things’ is a diary of culture, your culture. Pick one up at Pettinaroli—purveyors of expectational paper goods—and jot down all that you find entertaining and indispensable.

fpettinaroli.it

城市感官漫遊

  • Despite what our growing presence might sugg s and virtually retreat to the city’s great temple of listening, Teatro alla Scala. Begin with Keith Jarrett’s La Scala, improvised there with characteristic fluency across blues, classical, and a touch of un certo non so che. Then turn to Maria Callas in Madama Butterfly, Act II, before concluding with her 1955 performance of ‘Casta Diva’ from Norma, which remains unrivalled.

    Our own Music for Bathing playlist was composed to accommodate a lengthy soak—though in the absence of water, it proves equally capable of restoring calm. est, at Aesop, we favour discretion. Instead of raising our voice, we lower it for emphasis. On the street, we announce our proximity via the scent of a hand balm or oil burner blend, rather than the for-hire face of a celebrity. Our signage does not engage in shouting matches with the neighbours. In-store, the volume knob is turned similarly low. When music recedes, conversation advances, and the true opera of the space—the skin care or fragrance consultation—can unfold with the clarity it deserves.

    If during Salone del Mobile you find yourself adrift in a chorus of strongly held, shakily formed design opinions, don your finest noise-cancelling headphone

  • Taste is often the first sense to become fatigued. During Salone del Mobile, the city’s most visible dishes appear everywhere and all at once: Risotto alla Milanese, Costoletta alla Milanese, Ossobuco. They tend to be singular in colour and plural in calories. These are dishes of great merit, of great certainty, and ones that tell you, from across the table, exactly where you are.

    Calm, however, is sometimes found in temporary displacement. If in need of a culinary vacation, try: Pho at LaViet Milano, Japanese breakfast at Pan, or Calamansi juice and a joyous serve of Halo-halo at Bulaluhan Sa Milan. Such cosmopolitan palate cleansers allow tastebuds to recover their sensitivity, and appetites to turn their attention back to the city at hand.

  • Do you ever stop and smell the roses? We do, often—and the Lavender, and the Wild Iris, oh and the Mimosa, too. With Salone del Mobile’s audiences and rising spring temperature, come many blooms, some less pleasant than others. So, pick up a panino from Bar Quadronno, and give your nose a break—the good kind—with a trudge through the green. Parco del Portello is the work of landscape designer Charles Jencks and landscape architect Andreas Kipar, who possibly wanted to see the city without having to be in it. Its central hill is an excellent vantage point from which to look toward the future, or the next gelato. As the name suggests, the Brera Botanical Garden is a seed’s throw from Aesop Brera—it was once the local pharmacy’s supplier of medicinal plants. Close by, Giardino Perego also hides in plain sight.

  • Tactility is the most reassuring of the senses because it confirms what vision can only suggest. In a week defined by looking, to feel something fully, even briefly, can be quite touching.

    At the heart of each Aesop store is a basin, and it is here that our consultants literally take our customers by the hand, in an extended, choreographed handshake in which pace slows. Water runs at a finely tuned temperature—cool in summer, warm in winter. A measured amount of formulation is placed on the back of the hand, and then gently massaged into the skin until absorbed. All the while, aromas whisper themselves into existence. Beyond revealing the skin feel of the product, the demonstration restores awareness of the hands themselves.

    In Milan, such feats of dexterity can be experienced in our Brera, Corso Magenta and Milano Cordusio stores.

  • The eye does its best work when it is not rushed. Milan’s beauty does not present itself outright, it emerges in unassuming fragments: entrance halls, small courtyards, slabs of concrete.

    Design festivals tend to make the eye flutter. Attendees are encouraged to move, moth-like, from lamp to lamp, dinner to event to ‘immersive experience’, trying to soak in all that shines while squinting out their fellow aesthetes’ stampede. Suffice to say, at one point during Salone del Mobile, Milan may well feel a little... over-furnished. Should you prefer a less exhausting vision of the city, may we suggest two alternate perspectives:

    Firstly, through celluloid. It rains a lot in Michelangelo Antonioni’s La Notte, both meteorologically and emotionally. With spare scenes, gorgeous chiaroscuro cinematography and a handsome Jazz soundtrack by Giorgio Gaslini, it proves incredibly refreshing after a day among the crowds and cushions.

    Or alternatively, by rail, precipitous car ride and boat, to nearby Lago di Como. A refreshing reprieve from the city may be found at its swimming spots. Our preferred, away from the crowds: Parco Civico Teresio Olivelli—a few lengths away from Villa Carlotta—where grand staircases and sculptural fountains urge bathers into the waters, the mountains their watchful lifeguards.

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'Rome is the heart of Italy, but Milan is the head.’
Giuseppe Verdi
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